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Navigating Cuba: Your Comprehensive Guide to Getting Around
At first glance, Cuba's transportation network appears robust, boasting an extensive train system and 900km (560 miles) of highways that link towns throughout the island. However, getting around Cuba can be challenging for travelers due to the country's unique transportation dynamics. Public transport isn't tailored for tourists, and the roads can be bumpy with minimal signage. Buses remain the most reliable option for inter-provincial travel, while classic cars are perfect for day tours. This guide will equip you with essential tips to make the most of your journey around Cuba.
The Bus: Your Best Bet for Traveling Around Cuba
Connecting most destinations of interest to tourists, buses are the most dependable means of transportation in Cuba. Bus travel is generally safe, relatively punctual by Cuban standards, and affordable compared to rental cars or taxis.
Víazul: The Go-To Bus Company
Víazul is the primary bus service for travelers, offering air-conditioned buses and extensive coverage of the island’s popular spots. While you can book tickets online, the system is unreliable, so it's better to book directly at the Víazul bus stations at least two hours before departure. During peak seasons (July and August, plus November to March), reservations should be made days in advance for popular routes such as Havana to Viñales, Havana to Varadero, and Santiago de Cuba to Baracoa.
Booking Tips:
- Present an identification document, like a passport, when booking tickets.
- Payments are accepted only via non-US-based cards; cash is not accepted.
- Pack a jacket, as the air-conditioning on buses can be very chilly, with no passenger temperature controls.
Conectando Cuba Service
The Conectando Cuba service, marked with the Transtur logo, runs routes connecting Havana, Cienfuegos, and Varadero. It picks up and drops off passengers at hotels, which can extend journey times due to multiple stops. Tickets must be purchased by noon the day before travel through Cubanacán, and fares are similar to Víazul services.
Renting a Car: An Adventurous Option
Renting a car in Cuba offers freedom but comes with its own set of challenges, including poor road conditions, ambiguous signage, and road rules.
The vintage cars of Havana add to the city's retro atmosphere and are iconic on postcards. These shiny, restored cars are used primarily for city tours, not for regular transportation. Although they look pristine on the surface, they often have underlying mechanical issues and may leave oil spills where they are parked. Some Cubans own old cars but lack the means to repair or repaint them, so you'll see many well-worn vehicles on the streets. For tourists, these classic cars are a nostalgic attraction, but for Cubanos, they are often just practical, albeit aging, transportation.
Car Rental Basics
All car rental firms in Cuba are state-run, with Cubacar and Havanautos being the main operators. Private online agencies like CarRentalCuba act as middlemen. Costs start at US$70 per day for a medium-sized car in the low season, with additional fees for insurance, liability waiver, and airport pick-up.
Tips for Renting a Car:
- Use Google Maps or Maps.me for navigation.
- Arrange for a parqueador (car keeper) if you’re not staying at a place with secure parking to avoid theft of car parts and loss of your guarantee deposit.
Taxis: Two Types, Similar Rates
Cuba has two types of taxis: yellow taxis (both state-owned and private) and classic convertibles. If traveling in a small group, you can book inter-provincial travels or day tours in an almendrón (old American cars). Fares for classic convertibles, often rented by the hour within cities, should be agreed upon beforehand.
Local Taxis and Colectivos
Communal taxis, or taxis colectivos, operate within towns and cities, following set routes and charging fixed fares. These are usually classic American cars. Long-distance taxis, often found at Víazul bus stations, can be reliable alternatives to buses, sometimes offering quicker travel.
Cuba: Surprisingly Bike-Friendly
Despite its gas shortages and low car numbers, Cuba is bike-friendly, with a 1m-wide bike lane on the right side of roads, even on highways.
Cycling tours are popular, though basic Chinese bikes are more common for daily use. Proper cycling shops are rare, but bike rentals are available in major cities.
The most convenient long-distance cycling options for visitors are pre-arranged cycling tours. Several national tour operators offer cicloturismo packages, but booking with a foreign company is generally preferable. McQueen's Island Tours is an experienced operator and the best equipped agency for renting bikes in Cuba for independent touring. As with tour packages, you'll need to book your bike in advance. McQueen's has an office in the Kohly district of Havana and rents out mountain bikes and hybrids.
When cycling in Cuba, it's advisable to bring your own padlock, as rental bikes rarely come equipped with them and they can be challenging to find for purchase. Most Cubans secure their bikes in the ubiquitous parqueos de ciclos, located within homes, abandoned structures, or open spaces, where the owner will safeguard your bike for a few national pesos until your return.
Biking Essentials
Poncheras (puncture repair stalls) are common across Cuba, even in small towns. Spare parts might be scarce, but Cubans' ingenuity ensures that bikes keep moving. Popular bike rental outfits include Cubyke, Citykleta, and Veló Cuba.
Trains: Not the Best Choice
Despite an extensive network, trains in Cuba are generally avoided by locals due to their unreliability, slow speeds, and lack of comfort.
Havana serves as the hub, with connections to most provincial capitals. Trains run every fourth day towards Santiago de Cuba, Holguín, Guantánamo, and Bayamo–Manzanillo. Purchase tickets at train stations and check schedules directly at the station as they are subject to change without notice.
Limited Boat Services
Two major ferry services operate in Cuba. One runs from Old Havana to Casablanca and Regla in Havana, departing every 15 to 20 minutes, while the other is a catamaran service connecting Surgidero de Batabanó to Nueva Gerona in Isla de la Juventud. Book at least a day in advance with your passport at the Havana bus station in Avenida 26 and Zoológico, Plaza de la Revolución. Be aware of potential cancellations during hurricane season (June to November). In Holguín, Cayo Saetía can only be accessed by boat, but you'll need to book through an official travel agency to get there.
Domestic Flights: A Quick but Limited Option
Given Cuba's length (1200km/745 miles), domestic flights offer a quick way to travel. Aerocaribbean operates most routes, primarily from Havana. Flights can be booked through cubajet.com. It should also be noted that Cuban airlines have had a poor safety record over the past couple of decades.
Local Transport: Bici-Taxis and Horse-Drawn Carts
Bici-taxis (tricycles with a double seat) are popular in downtown areas, while cocotaxis offer a unique ride for tourists. Horse-drawn carts and trencito (toy-like train) tours are also available in colonial cities and malecones. Always agree on a fare before boarding any local transport.
Hop-On Hop-Off Tourist Buses
Major cities like Havana, Varadero, Santiago de Cuba, and Cayo Coco use hop-on hop-off buses, connecting hotels with main sights via double-decker open-topped buses.
Driving Hazards in Cuba
Driving in Cuba can be hazardous due to poor road markings, lack of street lighting, and frequent potholes. Driving at night is especially dangerous, and push-bikes without lights are common. Road signs are scarce, making getting lost a probability.
Fuel and Petrol Stations
Petrol stations are sparse, especially on the Autopista Nacional. Ensure a full tank before long journeys, and tourist cars should fill up at convertible-peso stations like Cupet-Cimex and Oro Negro.
Accessible transportation
Cubans are generally willing to assist visitors, but accessible transportation options in Cuba remain limited. Curb ramps are prevalent in central Havana but scarce in other cities. Designated parking spaces for people with disabilities are not available, and public transportation such as buses and taxis are not wheelchair-friendly.
You’ll find more information and tips here:
Best Time to Visit Cuba: When to Go and What to Expect
Cuba Travel Guide: Essential Tips for Your Trip
Safety in Cuba: Essential Security Tips for Travelers
Sizzling Summer in Cuba: A Guide to the Island’s Best Events
By following these tips, you'll be better prepared to navigate Cuba's unique transportation landscape and make the most of your travels on this vibrant island. Whether you're hopping on a bus, renting a classic car, or biking through the streets, understanding the local transport options will enhance your Cuban adventure.
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